Sunday, September 27, 2009

Sat, Sept 26: On the road trying to get out of the smoke!

It is so nice to wake up to blue skies!There is a little flea market setting up as we leave the campground so we wander through itthen hit the road. We are still following the Lewis and Clark trail and are also in the Nez Perce heartland. Their history is very interesting and sad. History seems to indicate they were mostly a friendly nation, but were caught up in the rush for gold and land from the 1850's to the 1880's.

We stop at the Nez Perce National Park Heart of the Monster siteand listen to the story of the beginning of the people. It is an interesting story and the rock does look like the heart of a monster. For the next 100 or so miles we follow the Lochsa Riverthrough a wildness area. It is a pretty drive with several trailheads going off into the mountains, some with foot bridgesacross the riverAfter we cross the Lolo Pass and head into Montana we turn south on Hwy 93. Here we encounter a raging forest fire to our west.It had been a little hazy earlier in the Lochsa River canyon, so we guess this is the cause. Though today the wind is blowing hard toward the east and pushing the smoke and fire toward Montana. Once in Montana we head down to the Idaho border. Near the border, we cross over the Lost Trail Pass and turn east. Our goal is the Big Hole National Battlefield(Smoke from the earlier fire can be seen at the top of the picture) also part of the Nez Perce National Park. This is where in 1877 the non-treaty Nez Perce tribes fought the army to a stand-still and escaped after capturing a canon and losing some 90 of their people. Later, some of the Nez Perce were sent to Oklahoma for some 20 years. Ultimately, the tribe was reunited on much reduced reservation lands in Idaho.

At the battlefield visitors center, we can see yet another fire raging to the east.The rangers say one fire started on August 13 and the other just last week. They are being allowed to burn, but hopefully there will be rain and snow by Tuesday that will help control the fire.

We are planning to spend the night in Andaconda and then drop down into West Yellowstone tomorrow about 150 miles away. Leaving the visitors center we head north between the two fires. It is nearly 5PM and about 60 miles back up to our stopping spot. However, the smoke just gets thicker and thicker. It makes for some interesting pictures (first two pictures looking west third picture looking east),but we have no desire to camp in it. Instead of turning turn off for Andaconda, we go on up to I-90, a smokey sunset on I-90 near Butte,and head east till we leave most of the smoke behind us. We wind up stopping at 8PM in Bozeman about 100 miles down I-90.

It has been a long day and we are a little road weary so we watch the Stepford Wives while we fix dinner.

Fri, Sept 25: On the road to Kamiah, Idaho

It is another pretty morning. We get up and have a leisurely breakfast talking over what we want to do today.As we look at the map and read about the scenic drives, we realize that it would be better to drive on today on the roads we want to travel as there is no real loop to do with out a lot of back tracking.

So Dick goes to the office for a refund of the second nights fee. Back at the rig Carolyn gets breakfast cleaned up and things stored away while Dick gets us hooked up and read to go.
About 11AM we head down the Coeur d’Alene Lake Scenic Byway, Hwy 95.
The lake is 32 miles long and formed by glacier activity.It is a beautiful lake with many nice homes right on the water. There are also many for sale!
All most at the south end of the lake,we leave Hwy 95 and pick up Hwy 3 which is White Pine Scenic Byway. This takes us through the high valley of the Joe and Marie Rivers then into an dense, old fir/pine forest.

After a while we get back on Hwy 95 heading due south to Lewistown at the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake Rivers.For a while we drive through golden steep rolling hillscovered in what is left of the wheat harvest.It is pretty countryside. Then at Lewistown we descend on a very steep road...with lots of trucker warnings at the top and four run away truck ramps on the way down!There is a great overlook just before we start down. We stop there, have lunch and enjoy the view. We can see the tail end of the Snake River Hell’s Canyon it is such a clear day.At Lewistown we pick up Hwy 12 which is the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway. It follows the Lewis and Clark trail along the Clearwater River.We make a stop at the Nez Perce National Park Visitors Center and learn a little about the Nez Perce Indians. There is a very nice museum at the Visitor’s Center with lots of items that were used in everyday life. The beaded items are especially nice.

We drive on the edge of their reservation for the rest of the afternoon along the Clearwater River. The park service has some maps and other information on the area. The park is quiet big with several points of interest in northern Idaho and western Montana.

We drive on, following the scenic byway to Kemiak. It is a very nice drive. The river is beautiful in the late afternoon sun.
There are many people wade fishing in the river. We find a nice little campground on the river at Kamiah.We love to camp where we can set out and enjoy the waterand a pretty sunset.We grill some of the corn we bought in Washington and have a simple dinner of vegetables.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Thurs, Seot 24: On the road to Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

We sleep well again. It is another pretty day and we are up and on the road by 9:30AM. Today, 48 days after we left the "lower 48", we cross the border again just south of Osoyoos, BC.
The drive to the border is scenic

as we follow several lakes and pass though the nice village of Oliver where we stop at a neat little shop with lots of local crafts. The highway goes though a green valley surrounded by more arid mountains. This is a major fruit and wine region and is definitely worth a return visit sometime!

At the border, we have a short wait behind about 6 cars and there are two lines working. We show our passports and are asked the standard questions to which we give the appropriate answers. Then we are directed to a area ahead of us to have our rig and tow strip searched. The lady doing the search asked about fresh foods we bought in Canada that we still have. We have lettuce and tomatoes which we mention plus some green onions we forgot about. Well, in the rig, she confiscates a rather sorry lemon and a piece of lime we have had since we left the US 6 weeks ago and then takes offence at the few green onions we have in the ice chest in the car. She then pokes around in the car some more and asks a few more questions and lets us go. Glad that is now over with! We stop at a fruit stand a few miles down the road as we are still in the pretty green valley of vines and fruit trees. We buy some corn, green beans and fruit and strike up a conversation about the border crossing. Apparently this is a common occurrence. The farmer’s wife tells us there is a moth that gets in green onions the agents are trying to keep out. We all have a good laugh about the bugs knowing they are not suppose to cross that line in the dirt that is the border! Hmmm. She says it is good for her business though!

Soon we leave the green of the valley and head into the arid hills. We soon pick up the Columbia River

just below the Grand Coulee Dam. We make a stop at the Dam and head on down the road to Spokane and finally to Coeur d’Alene where we stop for the night as the country side changes to golden fields of harvested grains and pretty old farmsteads. The campground is on an island in Coeur d’Alene Lake. It is grassy and spread out. We get a good site next to the lake. That is good as we want to spend two nights here to explore a little.
Dick heads to the store to replace the food we need and Carolyn starts to read about what there is to do and see in Coeur d'Alene.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Wed, Sept 23: Penticton, British Columbia

After sitting on the shore listening to the water sounds and a good steak dinner last evening, we both died by 9PM..it is getting dark much earlier now, around 8PM. We are both awake. refreshed and ready to start the day by 8AM.After breakfast, we do a little email ,etc., and then drive to the Visitors Center for information on the wineries.The center is great. The lady gives us several maps and takes time to talk to us about our interests and then marks a route on the map along with places to stop that she thinks we will enjoy. There are maybe 60 wineries with in an hours drive of Penticton, most all of then are in the hills on the east side of the two lakes. The lady at the visitor’s Center suggests that we concentrate on the Naramata Bench area. She gives us a great little map and circles four or five things to be sure and visit. We leave with a bag of maps and information booklets and head for Naramata.

We stop at two wineries, but both have a charge for the tasting even though the visitors center’s information says they are free. We used all our Canadian dollars at the store yesterday when we thought we were heading to the border. So we move on. The next winery, Poplar Grove, on the list also produces cheese and their tastings are free. We try four wines and all the cheeses. We buy two white wines and their award winning Merlot and three of the cheeses! The views from the wineries are great. They are on a bluff overlooking the lake with the vines running down the hill toward the lake.It is a little after 12:00PM and we are hungry now so the next stop is a winery that has a Bistro, Hillside Cellars. The menu is interesting so we sit down and order. Dick has a Greek wrap and Carolyn has a pizza with grilled local pears, caramelized onions, pine nuts and blue cheese made at the other winery. We try a glass each of two white wines. The meal is wonderful. In fact the pizza is so good ,with the blue cheese, that we go back to the other winery and buy a full wheel of it. The owner tells us it freezes beautifully.
Well fed, we head to the little town of Naramata. There is a resort hotel, Naramata Heritage Inn, built in the Cape style of Cape Town,that was built in 1908 and a nice little park down on the water.Believe it or not, there is small stream in the park that flows into the lakeand there are salmon running!We are really a long way from the ocean! There is also a bike trail on an old railroad bed above the wineries that would be fun to ride. The view of the lakes must be grand. There are tons of apple trees with the apple boxes sitting around waiting to be filled!This area reminds us of Clare Valley in Australia in some ways. It is a great place to visit for a few days!

We head back to the campground stopping at the grocery store for some rainbow trout to fix with one of the bottles of white. Then go back to the campgrounds. It has been a pleasant day, warm and sunny; glad we found the place. It is a well kept secret. We spend the rest of the afternoon sitting beside the lake watching the world go by. Dick cranks up the grill and cooks up some things to have over the next few days and we enjoy the bottle of merlot with a grilled hamburger. We are not too hungry after our good lunch and good wine. We will sleep well!

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Tues, Sept 22: On the road, working our way to the US border.

Glory be, it is a beautiful morning! The sky is clear and blue!We are rolling by 9AM. Again we didn’t have to unhook last night. We continue down Hwy 97 past several roadhouses the sprang up in the 1860's to service the travelers on the original wagon road. We see another black bear having a drink at one of the many small lakes along the road, but there is no way to stop for a picture. There is road construction off and on today. The road is being made into a four lane highway. The truck traffic is heavy again.

At Cache Creek we leave Hwy 97 and pick up the TransCanadian for a few miles heading south still. The landscape is changing; it is drying out very fast.There are orchards on the hill sides and along the river beds now. We stop at one of the road side stands and buy some fresh tomatoes. Since we will cross the border soon we can’t buy apples or peaches.

Unfortunately, at Spences Bridge, we leave the good TransCanadian and turn onto Hwy 8 heading southeast. It is very scenic,but very narrow and crooked. It follows a small river through a canyon like area. After an hour, we change highways again and are now on the beautiful four lane divided Hwy 97C. The landscape changes once again too and we are in forested mountains. In fact, the road climbs for half its distance then decends at a rapid rate for the other half.
We get to Kelowna about 2:30PM. It has the first really nice shopping we have seen since Anchorage. So we stop at a grocery store and spend the last of our Canadian cash. At Spences Bridge, we leave the good TransCanadian.

We now turn South onto Hwy 97. We are now maybe 60-70 miles from the border. This is a nice drive. We are driving down the western shore of Okanagan Lake.
This a wine producing region and reminds us a little of Italy. We follow this lake for about 20 miles. Just south of Penticton we see a really nice campground on the shores of Skaha Lake.It is almost 4PM so we decide to stop. We get a great site right on the lake shore.After relaxing about an hour on the edge of the lake, we decide to stay another night enjoy the lakeand check out the wines of the area. We can see the vineyards on the hillsides across the lake and noticed a wine center as we came through town.

Dick grills a steak and we have a relaxing evening after three days of driving and 1000 miles.